Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Latest Guidebooks

Three Lonely Planet books of mine hit the bookshelves over the last six months, so here are three shameless plugs.

Just out is the new Lonely Planet guide to Nepal. A few weeks after this one was finished and sent to the printers April's massive earthquake rocked Nepal, killing over 8000 Nepalis. After the dust settled we reevaluated our coverage and had local journalists update conditions on the ground, incorporating damage from the main trekking trails to the stunning temple complexes of the Kathmandu Valley. It was a challenging job, ably put together by Lonely Planet's destination editor, and the result is the first post-earthquake guide to the country.




Just after completing the Nepal guide, I handed in Lonely Planet's Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya. After several months trekking in the Everest region, including from Jiri to Lukla, the Three Passes Trek and Lukla to Tumlingtar and then several weeks fighting record snowfalls in the Manaslu and Tsum valley regions, it was disheartening to hear of so much destruction on the trails.

The Manaslu, Tsum, Langtang, Helambu and Rolwaling regions were particularly badly hit. At present almost all trekking trails except Langtang are accessible. Langtang village itself was completely wiped out, but efforts are being made to reopen the trek route by spring 2017. Trekking lodges across Nepal have never needed income and support more than now, so if you have ever considered a trek in Nepal, now is the time.

Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya was published in December 2015.


Finally, summer 2015 was devoted to hiking in my backyard, or almost, as I updated the Lonely Planet guide to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. 2015 was an incredibly busy year for the parks, the busiest ever in fact, and finding a campsite proved tricky. But it was a joy spending a couple of months both inside the park and exploring the gateway regions like the Beartooth Highway, Big Sky, the Gallatin Valley and Bozeman. The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem is a real gem, especially the areas surrounding the park. The guidebook came out in April 2016, in time for the centenary celebrations of the National Park Service .



Monday, July 18, 2016

Backpacking Off Trail in the Beartooths

The Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness on the Montana-Wyoming border is my favourite backpacking destination in the Greater Yellowstone region. The remarkable thing about the plateau is that you are mostly above the treeline, in high alpine tundra country normally reserved for treks in places like Tibet or the high Himalaya.

If my other summer backing trip to Bechler was all about waterfalls, then the Beartooths are all about lakes, hundreds of them in fact, and you can hardly walk for more than 20 minutes without passing another one. The landscape is high altitude tundra, a bit like the higher valleys of Nepal (think Gosainkund lakes), and this makes for easy walking and even easier routefinding. If you have a good map and navigation skills you can pretty much walk anywhere. The following was my four-day itinerary, but the options are endless. Click on the following pictures to see them larger.

Day One starts at Clay Butte trailhead, west of Beartooth Lake, and heads across the plateau towards Martin Lake. This is an established trail and so you might find other hikers on this section.


Kidney Lake with the Beartooth wall behind
Wright Lake and Martin Lake
Campsite night one, Martin Lake




Day two heads off trail, east up to the three dramatic Cloverleaf Lakes, then north to Two Bits Lake at the base of the Beartooth wall. From here I climbed up to the top of the ridge for aerial views of Sky Pilot Lake and the valley of Rock Lake to the east. A scramble can take you down the ridge to High Pass Lake, which makes for a great traverse option from Rock Lakes (accessed from near Red Lodge). The route then took me back down onto the plateau and west past Donelson and Maryott lakes to drop down steeply past charming Pleides Lakes and then up the valley to Flat Rock Lake for night two.

Cloverleaf Lakes
Two Bits Lake
Sky Pilot Lake
Rock Lake
High Pass Lake
Two Bit Lake and Lonesome Peak from the north
Pleides Lakes
Flat Rock Lake



Day Three Leave your main pack at Flat Rock Lake and make a detour loop up the valley past Varve Lake and Navajo Tarn to the iceberg-full lake of Castle Rock Glacier. From here you can shortcut south to Copepod and Cladocera lakes. Then it's a short, sharp descent back to Flat Rock Lake, where you can enjoy lunch beside the stunning lake. Then follow the river downstream past Castle Lake and Summerville Lake to Green Lake, where you'll have to wade across the northwest inlet to access Lake Elaine for a sublime night three.

Castle Rock Glacier
Castle Rock Glacier
Cladocera Lake
Flat Rock Lake
South from Flat Rock Lake
Lake Elaine
Lake Elaine camp
Lake Elaine dusk



Day Four is easy; hiking around the west side of Lake Elaine, through the forest and river gorge to Granite Lake (a great lunch spot) and then uphill, past several lakes and a confusing section of trail (keep your wits about you here) to eventually rejoin the trail you took in on day 1. You'll be back in your car in the early afternoon, to reach Red Lodge or Cooke City in time for a cold beer.

Lake Elaine
Trail back to Beartooth Butte


Practical Tips
Bring bear spray and have it accessible in a holster. August and September are the best months to avoid mosquitoes, but bring bug spray any time. Invest in Beartooth Publishing's 1:100,000 Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness map and also check out the terrain beforehand on Google Earth.







Thursday, December 17, 2015

Backpacking Yellowstone's Bechler Region



This October I made it down to Bechler, the remotest corner of Yellowstone National Park. Bechler is a wild and expansive landscape of meadows, waterfalls and hot springs that really only lends itself to overnight or multi-day backpacking trips. The four-day itinerary took in over 25 waterfalls and two of the best hot springs soaks in the Rockies. The only disappointment was the lack of wildlife and that fact that is was surprisingly busy (full moon weekend in high season). Still it was recommended. 

My itinerary took me from Bechler Ranger Station up to Ferris Fork, then back down the valley in order to detour to stunning Dunanda Falls. If you can arrange a vehicle shuttle it's well worth combining Bechler, Dunanda, Ferris Fork and Shoshone Lake into one of Yellowstone's great backpacking trips.


Bechler Meadows



Bechler is all about its waterfalls.



Collonade Fall

Dunanda Falls

Iris Falls




Ferris Fork is one of the highlights, a junction of four rivers that has some great thermal features, a near-legendary soaking hot spring called Mr Bubbles and plenty of options for off-trail waterfall exploration. It's a two-day walk north from Bechler Ranger Station or south from Lone Geyser (near Old Faithful).


Soaking in Mr Bubbles





Dunanda Falls is the other great highlight, with several soaking hotpots at a perfect temperature right at the base of the towering waterfall.


Dunanda Falls
 
Practicalities: I managed to pick up a backpacking permit the day before starting, which was lucky because most people book their permits six months in advance. September and October are the best months here; before September come prepared for boggy conditions and fearsome clouds of mosquitoes. Be prepared to wade thigh-deep across half a dozen rivers.

A rare Bechler bridge; be prepared to wade elsewhere

The back side of Grand Teton from Bechler

Backcountry Luxuries

The Best Detours off the Everest Base Camp Trek

If you are thinking of trekking in the Everest region, then I suggest you check out this photo article I just wrote for Lonely Planet. Included are ten of my favourite detours off the main Everest trekking trail, places that you'll likely have completely to yourself, if you don't mind putting in a bit of leg work to get there. Most are just an hour or two's walk off the main trail, while some involve a full day trip.

My advice is to budget three or four extra days to your trek to include these babies. They may end up being the highlights of your trek. Just make sure you are fit and acclimatised and that your lodge owner or guide knows where you are going. Be safe.

Top Ten Detours off the Everest Trek

 

Sunday, August 23, 2015

Wanderlust Ireland & Austria

Here are some final slideshows from the Ireland and Austria Wanderlust films. Thanks for watching! Click on them for larger images.

Ireland





Austria


Thursday, August 13, 2015

Andalucia: GR7 Tarifa to Ronda

The second of this series of Wanderlust hiking films was in Spain (the only country to get two films during this series). Starting from view of Africa at Tarifa (the first picture), the trail heads through the cork forests of the Alcornocales National Park to the walled towns of Castellar de la Frontera and Jimena de la Frontera. Then over the Sierra de Grazalema to end up at the stunning Easter parades at Ronda. Cork harvesters, flamenco guitarists, whale watching and bullfighting, all in the company of the fabulous Quico. Some pictures from the trip:








Wednesday, August 5, 2015

Wanderlust Norway

Hi all,
Here are a few photos from the Wanderlust Norway film. The hike follows the St Olav's Way from Lillehammer to Trondheim (with a quick detour to the western fjords), passing through the Jotenheimen and Dovrefjell national parks. Some really spectacular landscapes.
Click on the photos to see them larger.
 




Friday, July 31, 2015

Second Series of Wanderlust

Hi all,
To accompany the second series of Wanderlust, starting 3 August on Arte at 7.40pm, I will be attaching a few photos here on the blog from each of the five long-distance hikes featured during the week.

First up is the Amalfi Coast, one of the most spectacular coastal hikes in Europe but also one of the hardest with thousands of steps and plenty of elevation gain most days. The rewards were plenty: fantastic food and drink, characterful people and some of the most beautiful terraced scenery I've ever seen. A truly enjoyable hike.

Click on the pictures to see them on a larger scale and watch the program live on Arte, or stream it on the Arte website, either in French or German.

Thanks,
Bradley





Thursday, May 7, 2015

Earthquake in Nepal


In the wake of the the catastrophic earthquake in Nepal, several people have asked me for suggestions on how they can help. There are lots of big organisations working in Nepal, including the Red Cross, Save the Children, Doctors Without Borders, Care and others. All are worthy of your donations.

There are also several websites that host funding drives and make donating money easy. Global Giving is a good one; click here for details.

If you'd rather donate to a smaller scale, local, grass-roots organisation that have a proven track record in Nepal, consider the following organisations, several of which I know personally:

The Mountain Fund - A locally-based organisation run by the experienced American Scott Maclennan from a base in Mankhu, between Kathmandu and Pokhara. Excellent local contacts and deep roots in Nepal mean that your donation will go directly to help people in the village. Donate here.

Education Restoration Nepal  - A new organisation established in reaction to the earthquake. ERN focuses on rebuilding schools, combining short-term assistance with the long-term picture; investing in education for the future.

Helambu Relief Distribution Centre - Focuses on the Helambu region, a popular trekking area and one of the worst hit regions of Nepal. Donate here.

PHASE - Works in Sindupulchowk and Gorkha districts, two of the worst-hit regions. Donate here.

American Himalayan Foundation - Has been doing excellent work in Nepal for years.

Sunsar Maya - Does good work with Nepal's orphans, of whom there are now many more in Nepal


If none of those fit, check other grass-roots organisation on this list from Outside Magazine.

Thanks,
Bradley

Tajikistan

Tajikistan
Classic Pamiri Scenery of Gorno Badakhshan

Current Favourite Track